Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
